This post is mostly pictures since I really wanted to share
the past few days of the Fete du Mouton (also called Tabaski). A few days before
the fete (holiday/party) we had a henna party at my house where a couple of other
Peace Corps volunteers, 6 of my neighbors, and myself had henna done on our hands
and feet. It is a cultural tradition and just a fun thing to do for fetes here.
Usually only the women have it done but we had a few men ask if they could get their
hands done too so not sure on the verdict there. We started at 9:30am and
finished around 5:30pm; the woman drew henna for all 9 of us! It felt like
getting ready for prom or a wedding. We played cards, did puzzles, and just
hung out together all day. I really enjoyed being around my neighbors. We don’t
usually have much to talk about so it was nice to be around them but still have
games to play and watch the woman draw the henna. Also henna takes a little
while to dry so it’s not like you can do more than sit there anyway. I was
surprised the children were patient and didn’t move while the intricate black
flowers dried on their feet. My neighbors also put brown henna on the bottoms
of their feet and tips of their fingers. It is another cultural tradition for
Muslim women. Most of my neighbors had their hair braided for the fete too. It is not normal for a woman to have her hair natural or not braided here- One girl's hair was undone and sticking straight out as she was waiting to have it braided. We thought "so beautiful right?" Nope. All the other girls were laughing at her.
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| Guyia getting henna done on her feet and Fatimatu sitting still after getting brown henna done on her feet (that is why her feet are covered with plastic bags-it is how they dry the brown henna) |
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| Playing Go Fish |
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| Fatimatu does not look happy about having to wait for her henna to dry (see the brown henna on the bottom of her feet) |
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| Typical wedding photo of the feet but for henna! |
On the day of the fete we watched the community prayer in
Beka-Hosséré and then went to Issa’s house for a feast. Each family kills and
eats a sheep so we were given some interesting parts to eat. My neighbors gave
us the ribs and some very well cooked pieces of liver. We also took a lot of
pictures. I felt like it was my wedding, especially when Issa was fixing my
skirt for the picture. In village and in the city, people were happy to see me
wearing the henna along with the traditional dress and head-wrap. I’m glad that
after 2 years, maybe I still get called white man but at least people acknowledge
my efforts to learn about their culture. I will always be an outsider but I
will always be Beka-Hosséré’s outsider.
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| Issa fixing my dress (just like a wedding picture, right!?) |
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| Guyia and her sheep that will be the feast later that day |
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| Me & the youngest, Oumal Heidi |
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| Me & Fatimatu (after 2 years, she finally let me pick her up!) |
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| Me & my wonderful neighbors |
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| Plus the newest education Peace Corps volunteer in my village, Alex! |
The day after the fete, we went to the fantasia at the
Lamido’s Palace in Ngaoundéré. I have seen the fantasia a few times since it is
done for each Fete du Mouton and Fete du Ramadan but it was the first time for
some of the newer Peace Corps volunteers. It was a wonderful day especially
watching the Chief of Beka-Hosséré and many of my friends from village come
marching out to meet the Lamido for the end of the fantasia. Little did I know
that my Chief is the little brother of the Lamido (sometimes it takes 2 years
to find out what Cameroonians think is obvious). A few of us even got
interviewed for the Cameroonian (CRTV) news.
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| CRTV interview |
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| Fantasia |
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| Beka-Hosséré Chief and villagers going to meet the Lamido |
A great last fete for me in Cameroon and now there is less
than 7 weeks until I say farewell to Beka-Hosséré. I really hope I will return
again someday and see Dada in high school and not married before age 16.
Already I have seen changes especially in Zakiatoo who should be married by now
with the cultural tradition of being married by 16 or 18 but instead she has a
job in the city and tells me she wants to marry for love.
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| How many people can you fit on a motorcycle? 3 guys, 2 girls and a baby on the front |
Hi Renée,
ReplyDeleteAs always, your commentary and insights leave me gasping at the cultural challenges you have faced over these past two years. How I admire the way you've dealt with them! I read in your words and see in the photos the warm feelings you've developed for your neighbors, the acceptance of many of their ways, yet a determination to introduce at least some of yours! And I celebrate with you that Zakiatoo has gone off to the city to work. Until the women of the world are given all the rights due them, we will all, men and women, be in chains.
Enjoy these final days. Oh, yes, get ready to be really cold! :-)
The Cutshall-Kings send their best,
Joe