Monday, March 30, 2015

Work and the Casual Random Adventures


Breaking news in the Adamawa! The rain has finally arrived!!! There was nothing better than standing outside as the cool drops of water fell on my face washing away the dust and dry season. The rain doesn’t come every day but when it does, it’s a beautiful thunderstorm. Only a few more months and the rain will water the land every day.

Entertainment while washing laundry and writing letters

Even though I feel like I just wrote a blog post, I wanted to share a few stories of my adventures this week. It started out with getting invited to dance in a music video at Lake Tison. A few volunteers have become friends with a famous Cameroonian singer and she wanted her American friends to participate in her music video. Gretchen and I were planning on hiking to Lake Tison anyway to train for Mount Kilimanjaro so why not be in a music video? Of course Cameroonian time played its role and the music video crew were a few hours late but we still had fun hanging out with a bunch of musicians. (Hint: they are just like any musicians in the states: party, drink, and can pick up a guitar and just make up a song). When the cameraman arrived, they dressed us up in costumes (my guy friend had to wear a wrap cloth around his waist and they drew white marking all over him). Thank goodness, my costume was just a green pagne pants and top. We then found out that some Italian friends were going to be at the Ranch (lodge by a lake owned by a Frenchman where people used to hunt) in Dibi (half hour away) so we left afterwards to go spend the night hanging out with some Italians and have a fabulous dinner of Italian food with some fried frog legs on the side. It is weekends like this one that baffle me. They are unexpected and spontaneous but always fun and show me that I may have days where I work and get stressed with not understanding how I can help make things better here, but then Cameroon surprises me with amazing people and crazy experiences.
Relaxing at the Ranch in Dibi

I also was able to attend a “baby shower”. I was told to stop by at Assiatou’s home to see a new baby and I walked into blaring music and a crowded room full of women and babies. The newborn baby was about a week old and sound asleep even though I could hardly hear myself talk. Women were coming in with gifts including pagne, washing tubs, a suitcase, and buckets. They made me sit on the couch and I don’t there was a moment when there wasn’t someone’s baby in my arms. For hours, people just came in, sat and chatted for a while and then left. I tried to make simple conversation in Fulfulde, but it is difficult to understand especially with the loud music. When I finally left, I passed women sitting on mats outside the door and all lined up beside the walls of houses. What a scene to see and an event to experience.
Baby Shower in Beka-Hossere

Those were the events of the week and then there was the work. We had a beekeeping conference in Ngaoundéré for three days. Each volunteer brought a Cameroonian counterpart. I invited my friend and Carl’s landlord, Issa. Issa actually makes beautiful silver jewelry in our village and is quite famous for it throughout Peace Corps Cameroon. We sat in sessions to learn about hive making, cultivating honey, and transforming it into wax candles and soap. We also visited an actual beekeeper in Ngaoundéré which was fun until the bees got a little mad and I found it safer at a distance. I now remember why I never was interested in having bees in the U.S. I start shaking from head to toe when I am around them. Issa on the other hand was so happy to learn and helped the beekeeper. So I figure, I can just help teach villagers about beekeeping and Issa can actually show them. We are going to build our hive on his property this week and hopefully if we build it, bees will come!
Beekeeping Seminar
 
 
Visit to a Beekeeper

Also this week we had our Soy Project Formation for the new participants. This session is when they learn about growing soy and transforming it. The session is taught by a colleague from the local Ministry of Agriculture.  We had it all planned and ready to go when Rachel and I stopped by the place where it was supposed to be held and found out that a Delegate was planning on using the room the next day just like us (even though we booked it before him). Talk about rude along with corrupted government officials. Anyway, we had to call all the participants that night and tell them about the new location. Unfortunately only 4 of the participants showed up at the session although we also had a meeting in the room next to it with the old participants from last year who just formed a cooperative. The meeting with cooperative went really well and we hashed out some problems. My supervisor for Peace Corps was visiting me that day and attended the meeting. I thought he would be disappointed that there were such a small number of new participants, but he was ecstatic to see the new cooperative and told me this kind of project is much bigger than normal for a new volunteer and I shouldn’t stress about it. And of course Cameroon had to surprise me again when the women in the cooperative decided they wanted to visit the President of the Co-Op because she had been sick for a long time. My supervisor and the rest of my counterparts agreed so we ended the day in a small home in a village near by, meeting with the President. Although we are having budgeting problems with having to support two groups (Soy Project and the Cooperative), I feel that this stressful day was worth it just see everyone discussing the problems together. We are working on applying for another grant for the project and hopefully figuring out a way to make it sustainable.

Soy Project Seminar


To top off the week, I met with a farmer in Ngaoundéré and visited his nearby vegetable farm. He has been working with Peace Corps volunteers for years and gosh, his farm shows it! I have never seen so many different kinds of vegetables here before. He has even bought strawberry seeds from France and now has fields full of strawberries! Of course I forgot my camera but he sent me home with a bag full of fruits and vegetables! Including eggplant, parsley, basil, lettuce, celery, beets, leeks, and strawberries! Most farmers here only grow bananas, mangos, potatoes, cassava, and onions. Most days that is what I live on. But tonight it is going to be an awesome dinner! I hope to help the farmer by teaching about soy and business practices. He is interested in transforming soy into soy milk and tofu. Also he really needs to learn about running a business since he sells his product in the Ngaoundéré and Garowa markets. It is so refreshing to meet someone who is motivated to learn and is already successful at what he is doing. His son is helping him sell in the market while attending the nearby University where he studies political science. I asked him what he would like to do after he finishes college and he said he wants to teach. He said many of his friends who get the opportunity to learn like the Americans, go to America or Europe. But he wants to stay in Cameroon and help his community. He actually quoted John F. Kennedy in broken English “Ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country”. And he wasn’t just saying this to impress me, he meant it.
Gifts from a local farmer! Strawberries!!

Recently I watched “Blood Diamond” and afterwards walked outside my house a little shaky. It the first movie I had watched in Cameroon where the scenes including the homes and markets look just like where I live. It bothers me more that some of the scenes in that movie are what I expect are happening up north where Boko-Haram is killing innocent people in villages just like mine. I am safe in Ngaoundéré, but let’s not forget about the atrocities happening up north.

On a happier side note, I remember two moments where I laughed a little bit to myself. When we were in a beekeeping session and the lecturer asked if someone had a toothpick (he needed to release honey from the honeycomb). If someone asked that in the U.S., I doubt anyone would have a toothpick, but here, where they are used after every meal, someone had a bunch in her purse. Another difference is with tissues. Tissues are not used here for the nose, but to wipe the sweat off your brow or the schwarma guy wraps it around the meat sandwiches to use as napkins. If you have a stuffy or runny nose here, just snot rocket it into the bushes. I have never tried and to be honest, I don’t think I ever will.

Wednesday, March 18, 2015

Collaboration, Sharing, Friends, Burgers, and the Beach


After three weeks away from my village, I am finally back in Beka-Hosséré! It was a fun trip visiting Bemenda, Limbé, and Yaoundé. We had our IST Conference (it is always after we have lived 3 months at our post) at a nice hotel in Bemenda with hot showers and cooler temperatures. It was awesome to see my stagemates and share/hear stories about our adventures. Our counterparts from our villages also came to the conference for a few days so we could learn and collaborate together. Everyone shared projects that they had started or were going to start which made us realize that many of us are hitting the same barriers and the best we can do for each other is to share our ideas. Everybody’s post is different. For example those volunteers in Bemenda, they speak English and Pidgin which is difficult but they are not confronting the same problems as some of us who work in French speaking regions. Some people work in cities where they have so much area to cover and others work in small villages where there isn’t even cellphone reception. We all have issues but thank goodness it sounds like a majority of us like our villages and plan to stay the two years.
Stagemates!!
 
Stagemates reunited!

The conference was interesting especially working with my counterpart and discussing our soy project. I had a moment of frustration since I have found that I am torn between working in my village and focusing on projects that are in a variety of villages. I have a unique situation since I am so close to Ngaoundéré so I have more opportunities to work in the city and help the neighboring villages, including mine. I found out that I will be the last agricultural volunteer in my village so I need to use these two years to finish up projects and not start anything too big that won’t be able to sustain itself after I leave. I realized during IST how much my work means to me and my work is the reason I am here. Sure I have met amazing people and seen wonderful new places but my main reason for being here is my work. I think that is the same for many volunteers. We can party and go on adventures, but when we are alone in our villages, it is the work that gets us through the day.
IST Sessions

During IST, we visited a working fish farm and a mushroom training center. It is inspirational to see successful businesses and organizations that improve their community. We also learned about behavioral change and how to help our communities accept new ideas. Even though I was feeling a bit lost about what work I can actually do here, I am grateful for the information given to us during IST.
Fish Farms
 
Mushroom Training Center
 
Packing bags for growing mushrooms

Other than attending sessions, my friends and I danced our way around Bemenda and made up for the time we had been away from each other. I don’t think I could ever forget my stagemates; they are the people I spent my first few months in Cameroon with and the people who I confided in when I was missing home.
Agribusiness & Health Stage at IST

We went to Limbé Beach after the conference and it was my first time experiencing a warm water ocean! Thankfully the hotel rooms had air conditioning and the ocean was close because it was humid! The place very beautiful with the picturesque jungle next to the black sand of the ocean beach. I haven’t felt that clean in 6 months. When we were not in the water, we visited the city of Limbé with eating amazing fish by the water (oil rigs in the distance) and also visiting the local animal conservatory which also has a restaurant with hamburgers. Oh my gosh, how I miss good hamburgers. The animal conservatory saves primates when their parents are killed by hunters. There were gorillas, chimpanzees, drills, and many primates I had never seen before. Some of them were even out past the fences and stealing cracker wrappers off the ground. Hamburgers, beer, gorillas, friends, air conditioning, and the beach equal good vacation.
Fish! (and oil station in background)
 
Limbe Beach
 
Hamburgers!
 
Limbe Creww
 
too cute
 
Animal Conservatory

After leaving Limbé, we made our way back to Yaoundé to catch the train to Ngaoundéré. I spend a few days in the capital city and enjoyed some pizza with friends including going to the local Hilton Hotel for happy hour and some awesome drinks. Looking out onto the city lights from the top floor of the hotel, it felt more like I was in a city in America than in Cameroon. As much as this trip was amazing and fun, I was ready to go back to village when I got on the train. Of course the train broke down early in the morning and we had to sit for a few hours until another engine could be brought to us but hey, it’s Cameroon.
On the top floor of Hilton Hotel with Yaoundé city behind us
 
My view from the train as we came into the Adamawa region

As soon as I got back, we had our St. Addy’s Day party (St. Patrick’s Day party in the Adamawa). Each region is famous for a holiday party and ours just happens to be my favorite (Green!). It was great to meet some new people from other regions and celebrate, but I was definitely partied out after weeks of socializing.
Playing pool just before St Addys day. The Cameroonians were impressed that I beat the Americans :)

Now back to work with the soy project. I am finding out how difficult it is to understand the culture here especially when I don’t realize the differences until after the fact. We have our orientation for the new soy project participants next week and I am realizing how much paperwork I am expected to prepare. Money is always a problem so we are writing another grant proposal for the project. The problem is that the people in charge of this project already have jobs and a lot of work to do. There are a few that are motivated but they need their travel expenses paid and this project takes a lot of time outside of their regular jobs. I just keep thinking about the 32 Board of Directors at my hometown fair in New York that do not get paid to organize the fair. Gosh, after working Cameroon, working in the U.S. will be a breeze.

A few guys came up to me in my village and asked about business classes and agricultural sessions. One of my friends that sells food in the market asked me for money so she could buy tomatoes and then sell them in Beka-Hosséré. Definitely need to teach some business classes. The students are also talking about where they want their garden at the school to be so that is still a possible project. Every day is an adventure and I never know what to expect.

Yesterday, my postmate’s dog went running with me and we passed two dogs fighting over a very large, very dead snake. Today I woke up to my neighbors yelling “goat” in Fulfulde and banging on my door. A goat had gotten into my chicken house, the door had shut behind him and he was proceeding to break the roof while trying to get out. By the way, my chickens are now laying eggs and my cat, Annie, is not scared of me anymore but has learned how to beg for food. Plus I received two amazing packages, one with homemade honey from my friend, Russ and the other with seeds and homemade jam from my friend Serena!

Life isn’t a breeze here, but these are the moments that make me laugh. And then there are moments that make me cry, like when I got a ride back to my village by the Director of Peace Corps Cameroon and as I got out of the car, my neighbor’s kids knocked me over with hugs and kisses, so excited to have me home. Normalcy is now watching movies with them; Hercules in French this week. I had some sadness when I found out my 19 year old cat in the U.S. had died, but I have these other moments of love & acceptance to keep me sane. One day at a time and in the words of my postmate as we rode a mototaxi down a very bumpy, unsafe road: “I think I can, I think I can”.