The best way to describe my life here is to compare it to
riding a rollercoaster, like maybe the Comet at the Great Escape. I haven’t
made it to the top of the ride yet or experienced the thrill of descent, but I
have made some wonderful friends and they have helped me through the ups and
downs of everyday life here. It was tough to be away from home for the
holidays, but my fellow volunteers and I did our best to celebrate Christmas
with food, stockings, and Christmas movies. We even sang some karaoke! The
majority of the people I know in my village are Muslim and so they do not
celebrate Christmas. I’m sure the Christians in my village go to church, but my
friend and I decided to go a Lutheran church in Ngaoundéré for Christmas Eve. I
did not completely understand the sermon in French but it is was nice to feel a
little bit of home in the church with Christmas trees, Christmas paper chains,
and singing. We plan on going to another church possibly for Easter.
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Christmas in Ngaoundere |
New Year’s Eve was just one big party in Ngaoundéré.
Cameroonians celebrate just as much as Americans when it comes to New Years. I
made it past midnight dancing at one of the clubs, but when I woke up to the
call to prayer at 5am, I could still here the music from across the street at
the bar. It was a fun night celebrating the start of 2015 with both my American,
German, and Cameroonian friends.
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New Years with view of Ngaoundere behind us |
During the holidays, I visited a small village about an hour
from Ngaoundéré called Mbang Mboum. My friend, Aliz, is the Peace Corps
volunteer there. It was wonderful to see where another volunteer lived and
experience the differences/similarities between her village and mine. Aliz has
been there for over a year so she has so much knowledge to share about her work
and her life here in Cameroon. Unfortunately, her village is being relocated
after she finishes her service because a Chinese company is building a dam
nearby. I was so shocked to hear that an entire village that has been there for
so many generations will be moved without them putting up any of a fight. The
people will receive compensation for starting a new life somewhere else, but I
can’t imagine a change like this ever going smoothly in the U.S. As much as we
as volunteers would probably want to stop this from happening, we are not
supposed to get involved in politics or anything that would jeopardize our stay
here. Mbang Mboum is a wonderful little village and Aliz took Gretchen and me
to see the beautiful nearby waterfalls. Gretchen, Aliz and I are like the three Musketeers! We are planning on climbing Mt Kilimanjaro in July. We started a GoFundMe account to raise money and we are thinking of giving some of the money we raise to a Cameroon Education or Agricultural Project. We will let you know what we come up with!
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Waterfalls in Mbang Mboum |
We also took another trip to the Ranch de Ngaoundaba which
is a camp near a lake that felt more like a vacation. The rooms are nice and
there are hot showers! The main building had a dining room where all the guests
ate meals together and a game room with a pool table. The animal heads on the
walls made me think of this place as a scene from Ernest Hemmingway’s “The
Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber" where the character goes on an
African Safari. I found out that the camp used to be used by people from other
countries who came there to hunt and experience the “African Safari”. It is
owned by a Frenchman who is very welcoming and even has a few walls by the
kitchen that had been painted by a fellow Peace Corps volunteer. In the nearby
village, this same volunteer helped the local women start a Soy Restaurant. I
left the Ranch with a sun burn and some great memories with my new friends.
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My first time enjoying a lake and the jungle! |
I also got to see Lac Tison with my friends, Gretchen and
Fidel. There was a hilarious moment when I decided to jump into the lake from
the huge rocks we were picnicking on. Most Cameroonians do not swim and will
only wade in the water by the shore. I didn’t want to risk getting a disease
that is carried by the snails that live on the shore so I thought it would be
much safer to jump into the deep end of the lake. My Cameroonian friend, Fidel,
started to freak out and kept asking me to please, please do not go in the
water because if I drowned, he would not be able to save me. After about an
hour of him pleading, me laughing, and then me finally giving up, he finally
said I could jump in but at my own risk. I finally jumped into the cool water
and swam toward the nearest rock. About a minute later, I look up to see a
crowd of Cameroonians around my friends. They had been across the lake and saw
me jump in so of course they had to get a closer look at this crazy white lady.
Fidel was so relieved I was okay and commented on my amazing swimming skills.
Gretchen held back a laugh as she said “She was just doggy paddling”. I couldn’t
stop laughing about the whole situation for weeks.
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Lak Tison |
I’m sure there are many things that I do here that my
Cameroonian friends think are crazy. I made some bird feeders to attract some
of the birds closer to my house. It was always nice to watch them at my home in
the U.S. Of course I am having a difficult time getting them to use the bird
feeders, but they probably have never been fed chicken feed in plastic jars
hanging from trees in Cameroon. I also bought three chickens from a friend in
my village. One rooster and two hens. I have no idea what kind they are or how
old, but hopefully in a few months they will start laying eggs. I paid the kids
to build a chicken coop for them, but I still have to bring them into my kitchen
at night. In the U.S. my Mom and I had to worry about the fox eating our
chickens, but here, I have to worry about people stealing them. Chickens are
food here in Cameroon and they can feed a family.
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Birdfeeders in my front yard |
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My chickens! |
I have been trying to figure out what I can do to help my
village and what projects are needed but it takes time to learn the hidden
cultural rules and find the people who are the “diamonds in the ruff” that have
the courage/ambition to help their community. I have had moments where I am happy
or at least feeling useful: Hanging out in the bean mamma’s little “sit down”
area under a straw thatched canopy and finding people generally interested in
drawing a map of their community. Sitting in my hammock outside my house,
writing in my journal as the kids color beside me. Helping my neighbors clean
the corn so they can make cous cous. Meeting a volunteer from Slovenia who is
teaching English in Bemenda but wanted to visit Ngaoundéré and see more of
Cameroon. And one day I went shopping for material to make a dress for a
village wedding with my neighbor’s wife. About halfway through what felt like
an awkward date, I realized she just wanted to hang out. I really dislike
shopping in the U.S. but I put on my best face and picked out material, met with
a seamstress and looked at shoes with her. When we got back, we talked about
getting henna done on our feet and hands for the wedding. I was starting to
feel like I was at home and just shopping and planning for a big party. Then
her husband came in and proceeded to tell me that next time he will permit her
to go with me. I think she might not have asked for permission to go shopping.
Most of the Muslim men in my village have multiple wives and they each have their
own house or hut. The wife I went shopping with cannot have children so she
lives alone in her house. She was close friends with the last female volunteer
in my village and I hope I can be her friend as well as a model for how women
should live, with rights and dreams.
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Having Cous Cous Maize with my neighbors (the women and men eat separate & we eat with our hands) |
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Carl and I hanging out with the kids before dinner. This little guy loves Carl! |
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The students at the nearby school planting trees |
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Charles Angels in Beka-Hossere |
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Hanging out at my house |
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Helping clean the corn with my neighbors |
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A village dog that hangs out with me sometimes (he runs away if I mention a bath-haha) |
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Cows in my backyard |
I have been trying to look into agricultural projects, especially
at the school and my garden is mostly ready for planting. My three month
conference in Bemenda is coming up soon and I have to hand in a report about my
community’s needs. I was so happy to receive some brilliant packages from
friends and family! Everyone at home has been so amazingly supportive. Your
cards and presents are what get me through the ups and downs of this roller coaster.
It is amazing how I wake up every day not always having a schedule and by the
end of the day, I cannot sleep because so much happened that I have to think
about. Next weekend is my 27th birthday. We are celebrating at my
house in my village. Maybe at age 27 I will feel a bit smarter or at least
figure out how to get those birds to eat from my bird feeders.
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